Threads of tradition: The symbolism and craftsmanship of Kazakh attire

As Kazakhstan celebrates National Clothing Day on March 18, the revival of traditional garments highlights their cultural significance. Kazinform correspondent reports on the details and meaning behind these garments, which continue to reflect craftsmanship and national pride.

More than just functional attire, traditional Kazakh clothing has long been a marker of social status, gender, and tribal identity, making it an essential element of the nation’s heritage.

As highlighted on the official website of the President of the Republic of Kazakhstan, “Kazakh national clothing is an important and integral attribute of Kazakh culture. The main materials from which Kazakh clothing was made were cotton, wool, and felt. Also, being nomads, the Kazakhs often made clothing items from skins, leather, and furs, as they were best suited for the harsh conditions of the steppe.”

Today, interest in national clothing continues to grow, they are not only worn for celebrations but are also finding their way into everyday life, reinforcing a deep connection to the cultural roots.

Men's clothing

Kazakh men's traditional clothing reflects centuries of nomadic lifestyle and adaptation to the harsh steppe climate. It consisted of several essential elements, starting with a shirt (koylek) and trousers (shalbar) made from lightweight cotton fabrics. These garments were designed for comfort and mobility, allowing ease of movement, particularly for horseback riding.

The shapan was a key outer garment, worn year-round and crafted from various fabrics suited to different seasons. For colder weather, it was lined with wool or cotton for extra warmth. Wealthier men wore multiple layers of shapan, sometimes embroidered with golden thread to indicate status.

The beshmet was another essential item, a fitted coat worn under the shapan. It was made from cotton, wool, or velvet and was sometimes lined with fur for winter use. This layering system provided insulation and flexibility for different weather conditions.

Headwear was an important aspect of Kazakh attire, with different styles for different seasons. The takiya was a close-fitting cap often worn indoors, while the borik, made of fabric with a fur trim, was common in cooler weather. For harsh winters, the tymak, a fur-lined hat with earflaps, provided full protection against the cold.

In summer, men wore the kalpak, a tall, pointed hat made of white felt, sometimes decorated with embroidery. This lightweight headwear protected against the sun and heat. The designs and decorations on headwear often reflected regional differences and personal status.

A leather belt (kise) was an essential accessory, often decorated with metal ornaments and used to carry small items such as a knife or a tobacco pouch. The belt signified strength and practicality, particularly among warriors and hunters.

Kazakh men’s clothing was designed for function, comfort, and social expression. It protected against extreme weather, allowed freedom of movement, and displayed the wearer’s status and craftsmanship. Today, these garments remain an important part of cultural heritage, worn on special occasions and celebrations.

Women's clothing

Traditional Kazakh women's clothing reflected both practicality and beauty, incorporating fine fabrics, elaborate embroidery, and symbolic accessories. Women typically wore long, loose-fitting dresses made of cotton, silk, or velvet. Over the dress, they often added a vest-like garment called a "kamzol" or shapan, which provided warmth and elegance.

In cold weather, women wore fur coats made from fox or lambskin, lined with luxurious materials for added warmth. Embroidery and decorations such as beads, silver plaques, and intricate felt appliqués were common. These elements not only enhanced the aesthetic appeal but also symbolized wealth and social status.

Headwear was an essential part of Kazakh women’s attire, with each stage of life dictating a different style. The "saukele," a tall, conical wedding headdress, was the most elaborate and richly decorated piece. Made of silk or velvet, it was adorned with pearls, turquoise, and coral, with owl feathers at the top to symbolize protection and wisdom.

The saukele was accompanied by long side ornaments called "zhaktau," which extended down to the waist or lower. After marriage, women replaced the saukele with a smaller embroidered cap called "kasaba." When a woman had her first child, she started wearing a white headdress known as "kimeshek," which covered her neck and shoulders, signifying maturity and respectability.

Kazakh dresses varied based on a woman's age and marital status. Young women wore brightly colored, fitted dresses with ruffles and embroidery, emphasizing grace and youth. Over time, married women transitioned to darker, more subdued colors like deep blue or black, reflecting their growing responsibilities and social standing.

In the 19th century, Kazakh dresses evolved, adopting a fitted bodice and a flared skirt, known as "zhak koylek." The cut remained modest, with high collars and long sleeves, maintaining a traditional aesthetic. Handmade lace, gold-thread embroidery, and pleated accents added refinement and sophistication.

Bridal attire was particularly elaborate, featuring a richly embroidered dress, an ornate vest or coat, and luxurious jewelry. The colors of a bride’s dress often signified her family's heritage or regional background. Alongside her outfit, brides also wore intricate accessories, including silver belts and large earrings.

Jewelry played a significant role in women’s attire, often symbolizing protection, status, or wealth. Young girls wore amulets and charms to ward off evil, while adult women adorned themselves with necklaces, rings, and bracelets made of silver and semi-precious stones. Special hair ornaments, such as "sholpy" and "shashbau," added musical chimes to a woman’s movements, believed to bring good fortune.

Traditional Kazakh clothing remains an important cultural heritage, with elements still seen in modern celebrations. Brides continue to wear the saukele for weddings, and embroidered dresses remain popular for festivals and special occasions.

Traditional clothing in modernity

Kazakh national clothing is not just a tribute to the past but a living tradition that continues to evolve and gain relevance in modern society. President Kassym-Jomart Tokayev emphasized the importance of strengthening national identity through cultural heritage, highlighting the growing interest in traditional attire.

“Wearing national clothes is gradually becoming commonplace. This is a very good trend. Rather than dressing in black clothes that hide your face, it is much better to wear clothes in the national style. Our national clothes clearly emphasize our ethnic identity, so we need to popularize them in every possible way," he said.

National clothing is gaining popularity among the youth of Kazakhstan. Generation Z increasingly includes skullcaps, chapans, corsets with ethnic patterns and jewelry in their wardrobe. Instead of caps, Kazakh women choose traditional headdresses decorated with beads and embroidery.

Also trending are caftans, bombers with patterns and stylish national accessories - earrings, bracelets, shekelik, harmoniously complementing modern looks. Men also follow the trends, replacing classic jackets with stylish chapans. Modern designers are picking up the wave of respect for traditions, creating exclusive ethnic brands that harmoniously combine national motifs with current fashion.

Earlier, Kazinform shared interviews with Kazakh designers discussing the revival of traditional clothing in contemporary fashion.